How to read an INCI ingredient list on shampoo and conditioner

Updated October 6, 2026

INCI is the ingredient list on a cosmetic, written in standardised international names. Ingredients above 1% are listed from the largest amount to the smallest, and those below 1% can come in any order at the end. So the list tells you what is in a product and what its base is, but it cannot give you percentages, and no single ingredient is enough to judge a product. Below: how to read a list in a minute, what SLS, silicones and alcohols actually mean, and why a universal "ingredients to avoid" list does not exist.

What is INCI?

INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) is a naming system that is compulsory on the pack of cosmetics in the EU, and widely used elsewhere. It means the same ingredient has the same name whatever the brand: water is Aqua (often shown as Water on US labels), glycerine is Glycerin, coconut oil is Cocos Nucifera Oil. Plants are written with the Latin name of the species and chemical substances with an English name.

What the order tells you

1. The first entries are the base. In shampoo and conditioner, water (Aqua or Water) is nearly always first, followed by the main cleansing or conditioning ingredients.
2. The 1% line is invisible. Somewhere in the list the ingredients above 1% end and those in any order begin, but the manufacturer does not have to mark where.
3. A preservative or fragrance can act as a landmark. Preservatives (for example Phenoxyethanol) and fragrance (Parfum, or Fragrance on US labels) are usually used at about 1% or less, so ingredients listed after them are mostly present in very small amounts.
4. Small does not mean pointless. Preservatives, fragrance compounds and some active ingredients work at low concentrations.

That is why "extract of 20 plants" at the end of a list is usually marketing, and a protein in third place in a conditioner is a real part of the formula.

How to read a hair product label in a minute

• In a shampoo, find the cleansing agents (usually in 2nd to 4th place). They decide how strongly it cleans.
• In a conditioner or mask, look for conditioning agents (Behentrimonium Chloride, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Cetrimonium Chloride), fatty alcohols, oils and silicones. These smooth and help detangling.
• Check the PEH groups: proteins (names with "Hydrolyzed" or "Amino Acids"), emollients (oils, butters, silicones, esters) and humectants (Glycerin, Panthenol, Aloe). More in the guide to protein moisture balance.
• Look at the end of the list if your skin is sensitive. In the EU, fragrance allergens (such as Linalool, Limonene, Citronellol) have to be named once they pass a certain concentration. Elsewhere, a bare "Fragrance" can hide them.

Shampoo ingredients to avoid: is there a list?

Not a universal one. A good formula is one that suits your scalp and routine:

• Sensitive or dry scalp: gentler cleansing agents, fewer fragrance compounds.
• Oily scalp, lots of styling, silicones in your conditioner: a shampoo that cleans thoroughly, even one with SLES.
• Allergy or intolerance: check the specific ingredients that bother you, such as fragrance allergens or certain preservatives.

Be wary of "free-from" claims on the front ("paraben-free", "silicone-free"). They say what is missing, not whether the rest of the formula will suit you, and that only shows in the INCI. If you are looking for ingredients to avoid during pregnancy, or with eczema, psoriasis or hair loss, ask a doctor or dermatologist instead.

SLS and SLES in shampoo

SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate) and SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate) are the best-known cleansing agents, both sulfates. They clean sebum, oils and silicones off the scalp and hair very well.

Is SLS bad for you? It is not toxic at the concentrations used in cosmetics, and there is no good evidence that SLS in shampoo causes cancer or hair loss. It can be too strong for a dry or sensitive scalp and can dry out the lengths, especially with frequent washing. SLES is usually milder than SLS. The whole formula matters: an SLES shampoo with soothing additives can be gentler than a "mild" one with a poorer base.

How can you spot sulfates? Look for Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Ammonium Laureth Sulfate and Sodium Coco-Sulfate.

What is used instead? Gentler cleansing agents include Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Coco-Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate and Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate.

Does sulfate-free shampoo clean as well? Usually not as strongly. It tends to remove silicones, oils and styling products less thoroughly and may lather less. Many people use both types. More on that in the guide to how often to wash your hair.

Silicones in hair products

Silicones are emollients that form a smooth, flexible film on the hair. They cut friction, ease detangling, reduce frizz, add shine and protect against heat. Look for names ending in -cone, -conol or -siloxane: Dimethicone, Amodimethicone, Dimethiconol, Cyclopentasiloxane.

Water-soluble and insoluble silicones. Some (such as PEG-12 Dimethicone or PEG-8 Dimethicone, with PEG in the name) dissolve in water and rinse off easily. Most, for instance Dimethicone and Amodimethicone, do not dissolve in water and come off only with a shampoo. With very gentle washing they can build up and eventually weigh hair down.

Are silicones bad for hair? No. They do not "suffocate" hair, and there is no evidence that they cause hair loss. The real issue is build-up with gentle washing, and the answer is an occasional stronger shampoo, not giving up silicones. For damaged and bleached hair they are often one of the most effective forms of protection.

Silicones and curly hair. Many curly routines avoid sulfates and insoluble silicones, because the person washes very gently or with conditioner only and wants to avoid build-up. That is a coherent rule within that routine, not proof that silicones are harmful. Questions about their environmental impact are a separate topic from what they do to your hair, and this guide does not cover them.

Alcohol in hair products

"Alcohol" on a label can mean two very different groups of ingredients:

Is alcohol in hair products bad? Fatty alcohols are not, and they are among the basic ingredients of conditioners. Alcohol Denat. high up the list (as in hairspray, mousse or scalp tonics) can dry hair and scalp, but the same ingredient at the end of a list, in a small amount, usually makes no difference.

Ingredient list FAQ

Can you work out how much of an ingredient is in a product?

No. The list gives order, not concentration. You can only say that something near the start is present in a larger amount than something near the end.

Why is water first?

In most shampoos, conditioners and masks, water is the largest part of the product, often more than half.

Is a short ingredient list better?

Not necessarily. A short list can be simpler for sensitive skin, but a long one may just contain more ingredients in tiny amounts. What matters is what is on the list, not its length.

What if my hair got worse after I changed products?

Go back to the last routine that worked and reintroduce changes one at a time. The guide to protein overload and too many emollients lists the usual suspects, and remember that hard water and build-up cause similar signs.

What the Flomsy scanner does

The ingredient scanner in Flomsy reads an INCI list. You can paste it in without limits or photograph the label (the free plan limits photo reads). It matches names against a catalogue of 1,000+ ingredients and shows each one's function and a short description. It flags silicones (water-soluble and not), sulfates, preservatives and allergens, and estimates the split of proteins, emollients and humectants from the positions of the recognised ingredients.

The shares shown describe proportions only among recognised PEH ingredients. They are not the percentage composition of the product. If fewer than half of the list is recognised, the scanner shows no chart, because there is too little data.